2”X 3” 14-gauge tubing forms a base rail. Inserts are welded vertical to the base rail every 5 feet on center for mounting the wall tubes. The base rail has pre-punched holes for anchors. Use a hammer drill to drill into the concrete floor.
Drive ½” Red Head anchors into the holes and tighten them.
Secure the corners with angle brackets with pre-drilled holes. Attach the brackets with self-drilling screws.
Build the trusses in an open area. The posts have cut and welded corners, giving the building strength. (Competitive buildings usually have bent corners that sometimes require angle braces.)
Slide a 12” insert into the post and rafter to connect the truss corner. Secure it with self-drilling screws.
Raise the trusses and position them on top of the welded inserts on the base rail.
Slide the trusses onto the base rail inserts.
Plumb the posts.
Attach the two side roof hat channels. The side posts are secured to the base rail post with self-drilling screws. The posts can be raised up to compensate for any low places in the concrete floor. Raise each post as needed to make the hat channel a straight, level line. As you do this, put the screws in each post as appropriate.
Add the remaining hat channels for the roof.
Building the end walls – To measure the end wall tubing length, slide a piece of 2” X 3” tubing over the base rail insert.
Plumb the post, then mark the angle to be cut. Remove the post, cut, then slide it onto the insert in the base rail. Attach it with self-drilling screws.
Use angle bracket and self-drilling screws to attach the top of the post.
Frame doors and windows by attaching a piece of tubing horizontally with angle brackets to form the door header. Install doors and windows. windows.
Install side panels with colored self-drilling screws. Install the vertical roof panels. Note: if using insulation, install the insulation before the roof panels.